Monday 27 October 2008

Visting Asmara and Eritrea

Thinking again about some of our postings we seem to have become a little complacent about what's around us. Please don't get the wrong impression, Asmara is an amazing place and Eritrea's semi-desert / rift valley scenery has an awe-inspring austere beauty.

This was reinforced by a conversation I had last week with a (slightly drunk and lost) English tourist who was quite knocked out by the cleanliness of Asmara to say nothing of the 1930's and 40's architectural gems. The other big selling point for him was not feeling threatened at all as a stranger walking the streets of a city he didn't know - this is, after all, Africa's safest capital city.

So we would say by all means visit Eritrea but be prepared to stay in accommodation which is clean and tidy but not right at the top of the range (Eritrea's only luxury hotel, the Asmara Intercontinental, is now closed and has an uncertain future. Even that was hardly 5-star). It ranges from the Albergo Italia a beautiful, recently renovated, old Italian hotel in the centre of town (prices in $) through basic clean hotels to pensions (clean, very cheap but very basic) and the Appleby Holden bed in a corner of the living room (clean and very welcoming.) Also be prepared to forego a few of what are life's luxuries here (good wine, good beer, top-quality food) but be prepared to spend some currency, Eritrea badly needs it.

In summary, the visitor finds a country which on the one hand is poor and whose population has to put up with many trials and tribulations (once again there are further observations which we could make but which, as volunteers working in education, we prefer to avoid) but on the other hand has friendly, honest people who get on with life under trying circumstances. Tourism is undeveloped here so no viable beach resorts yet. From an eco-tourism point of view perhaps there is an angle ... come and see how people whose carbon / consumer footprint is a fraction of your own lives.

Oh and one last word; Asmara's climate at this time of year is excellent, cool nights and bright, sunny, not-too-warm days so perhaps this should be the time to visit?

P (with contributions from C)

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