The VSO party was held on Christmas eve and, despite minimal alcohol, went very well (secret santa, a Christmas quiz and carol singing being the highlights). On Christmas day itself about twenty of us went to the Albergo Italia, formerly the Keren Hotel, for a meal (not a traditional Christmas one but really good all the same).
On Boxing Day we headed out to spend a couple of nights in Massawa on Eritrea's Red Sea coast. We splashed out and hired a private minibus for our group of 10 (8 volunteers and two visitors) and we travelled via Filfil, Eritrea's cloud-forest area and most spectacular route.
Down at the coast it's much warmer than in Asmara just now, a very pleasant 30C, and we found the Red Sea easily warm enough to swim in and to snorkel around the small coral reefs adjacent to "Green Island" just off Massawa.
We also spent one evening eating fresh fish in the open air at the Salam Restaurant, Massawa. Selected individually, gutted, then cooked over an open fire before being served whole, the fish was absolutely delicious, although one of our number (who shall remain nameless) had to cover the eye of hers with a piece of bread before she could eat. For some reason the greater part of Massawa's cat population was in attendance at our table, all adding to the atmosphere.
We're getting close to the end of our first year in Asmara and, of course, it's nearly 2009 so all the best to everyone for the New Year and let's hope everyhing gets better in terms of the global economy.
For ourselves we don't really have much in the way of wishes for the New Year it's just that we hope to be able to continue here until the end of our respective placements (end of 2009 or early 2010) and after that who knows? It looks as if I may have to accept that there won't be another City of London job, so more volunteering / NGO work may be on the cards.
For Eritrea it's more difficult to express wishes for the New Year without overt criticism and that we're not going to do in accordance with our wish to remain here in 2009. So we'll just say that we hope for some reverse in the current downward trends, that we hope that Eritrea's youth will have more opportunity to use their education in their home country, that we hope that Eritrea's people will be allowed to follow their faith (no matter which one,) that we hope that there will be more freedom of expression allowed and we hope that everyone in the country will have enough to eat in 2009.
Rhus Hadish Amet!
P and C
Tuesday 30 December 2008
Wednesday 24 December 2008
24th December 2008
So it’s Christmas Eve in Asmara and much more Christmasy than you might think – there’s tinsel and decorated trees everywhere, and I’m wished a Happy Christmas by everyone I speak to, regardless of their faith. There’s a VSO Christmas party tonight and a big group of us are having lunch out tomorrow. We’ve taken Friday off and ten of us are heading down to Massawa for the weekend.
Almost half way through our posting here. Time flies etc. etc.
A very Happy Christmas to all our readers!
C
Almost half way through our posting here. Time flies etc. etc.
A very Happy Christmas to all our readers!
C
Monday 15 December 2008
Sunday
Sunday morning in Asmara dawns very chilly as usual, but a completely blue sky and sun means the temperature rises pretty quickly. A bit of a lie-in this morning, seems to be the only day we get one. I spend half an hour preparing my writing lesson with Henok while Phil does some revision for his Tigrigna lesson. Both of the lessons are an hour and a half from 11 and then we’re free for the day.
We decided to go for a walk today and follow the old railway line through Asmara. The railway was built by the Italians and originally ran from Massawa on the coast up to Asmara, looped around the city and then went to Keren. The only remaining functioning track is between Asmara and Nefasit (about 10k down the escarpment). We did the steam train journey there and back six months ago and a memorable journey it was. Today’s outing was a bit more mundane as very little of the track remains, in fact we only saw a couple of feet of it where it broke the surface of the dirt track, or in one case the sealed road. The most common use of the old track bed seems to be as a thoroughfare or makeshift football pitch. We almost managed to follow the track to the station but then were stopped by a stone wall which the track had no problem disappearing under so decided to call it a day and go for a cappuccino. The steam train coming up from the coast and winding its way around the art deco buildings of Asmara must have been a wonderful sight although unfortunately probably only the Italians rode the train. I don’t know this for a fact but as only the Italians were allowed to use the main Asmara roads (the Eritreans had to use the back roads) it is probably true. Another method employed by the Italians to keep the locals in their place was that Eritreans were not allowed to study beyond Grade 4 in school. The only positive thing that the British ever did for Eritrea was to include Eritreans in the full educational system.
It’s Christmas in less than a fortnight, I keep forgetting and then get reminded by a decorated Christmas tree in a shop window. It’s a strange thing to see as the Coptic Christmas, which is celebrated here is not until January 7th. The 25th December is a holiday as well so we sort of get a double Christmas.
C
We decided to go for a walk today and follow the old railway line through Asmara. The railway was built by the Italians and originally ran from Massawa on the coast up to Asmara, looped around the city and then went to Keren. The only remaining functioning track is between Asmara and Nefasit (about 10k down the escarpment). We did the steam train journey there and back six months ago and a memorable journey it was. Today’s outing was a bit more mundane as very little of the track remains, in fact we only saw a couple of feet of it where it broke the surface of the dirt track, or in one case the sealed road. The most common use of the old track bed seems to be as a thoroughfare or makeshift football pitch. We almost managed to follow the track to the station but then were stopped by a stone wall which the track had no problem disappearing under so decided to call it a day and go for a cappuccino. The steam train coming up from the coast and winding its way around the art deco buildings of Asmara must have been a wonderful sight although unfortunately probably only the Italians rode the train. I don’t know this for a fact but as only the Italians were allowed to use the main Asmara roads (the Eritreans had to use the back roads) it is probably true. Another method employed by the Italians to keep the locals in their place was that Eritreans were not allowed to study beyond Grade 4 in school. The only positive thing that the British ever did for Eritrea was to include Eritreans in the full educational system.
It’s Christmas in less than a fortnight, I keep forgetting and then get reminded by a decorated Christmas tree in a shop window. It’s a strange thing to see as the Coptic Christmas, which is celebrated here is not until January 7th. The 25th December is a holiday as well so we sort of get a double Christmas.
C
Tuesday 9 December 2008
A Busy Weekend.
It was a three day weekend due to the Muslim holiday of Eid and a very sociable one for us what with an invitation to Dawit's place for coffee on Saturday, a final farewell to John the outgoing VSO Country Director, my Sunday Tigrinya lesson, Caroline's Sunday English lesson (in different directions, of course), the arrival of a 14-year old boy on our doorstep with a new-year present and the arrival of Cliona for her last few days in Eritrea with her Hagaz (Anseba) days now behind her and South America on the horizon.
Dawit is our polio-victim friend (on whose behalf we're collecting for a motorised tricycle - we still need more money by the way!) and we went to his house on Saturday afternoon. Really we knew that we wouldn't get away with just a coffee it's not the Eritrean way but, in denial, we ate a Massawa Fast Food lunch shortly before going. Of course it wasn't long before we realised lunch was a big mistake as fresh papaya juice, injera, two types of goat stew, fried potatoes were laid before us, followed by coffee and popcorn - all delicious and we couldn't really do it justice.
So this is one of the problems (this time it's a good problem) with Eritrea - house guests are treated like royalty no matter how poor the family (a goat was probably killed on Saturday in our honour) and so feelings of guilt creep in once more. However, I was told by another Eritrean friend not to feel guilty about taking food and that in fact one must accept what has been prepared and be enthusiastic about it (this latter is not difficult).
Due to friends and family being around as well we learned a little more about Dawit's history and the total lack of funding available for any kind of help. He was unable to attend school after the age of 14 due to lack of facilities. He is, indeed, not eligible for any support from the government or any other funding body.
From the rest of the discussions it is apparent that this is going to become a full-blown Dawit-mobility project and that we will be involved in the purchase of whichever vehicle is selected. I am starting to feel that we may get out of our depth insofar as Dawit should possibly be assessed for ability to be able to handle a motorised vehicle in the first place and should definitely receive training so the whole thing could take a lot of time. Still that means more possibility to gather more contributions ... you'll be hearing more about this we're not going to let it drop!
P
We had to leave in time to meet up John at Cinema Roma (lovely old Art Deo cinema built by the Italians) for the football and then he was caught up in meetings and couldn't make it so I ended up watching a very boring game of football (Fulham and someone else) with Phil. Slept a bit too. Saw John later and he gave us a lump of Waitrose strong Cheddar cheese. Delicious, salivating at the thought of it now. He's off to work in South Africa for a few months and we, in Eritrea await the arrival of a new Country Director.
Re my Sunday English lesson - its academic writing to a young colleague of Phil's who's just starting a distance uni. course. It gives me someting to do while Phil has his Tigrigna lesson.
C
Dawit is our polio-victim friend (on whose behalf we're collecting for a motorised tricycle - we still need more money by the way!) and we went to his house on Saturday afternoon. Really we knew that we wouldn't get away with just a coffee it's not the Eritrean way but, in denial, we ate a Massawa Fast Food lunch shortly before going. Of course it wasn't long before we realised lunch was a big mistake as fresh papaya juice, injera, two types of goat stew, fried potatoes were laid before us, followed by coffee and popcorn - all delicious and we couldn't really do it justice.
So this is one of the problems (this time it's a good problem) with Eritrea - house guests are treated like royalty no matter how poor the family (a goat was probably killed on Saturday in our honour) and so feelings of guilt creep in once more. However, I was told by another Eritrean friend not to feel guilty about taking food and that in fact one must accept what has been prepared and be enthusiastic about it (this latter is not difficult).
Due to friends and family being around as well we learned a little more about Dawit's history and the total lack of funding available for any kind of help. He was unable to attend school after the age of 14 due to lack of facilities. He is, indeed, not eligible for any support from the government or any other funding body.
From the rest of the discussions it is apparent that this is going to become a full-blown Dawit-mobility project and that we will be involved in the purchase of whichever vehicle is selected. I am starting to feel that we may get out of our depth insofar as Dawit should possibly be assessed for ability to be able to handle a motorised vehicle in the first place and should definitely receive training so the whole thing could take a lot of time. Still that means more possibility to gather more contributions ... you'll be hearing more about this we're not going to let it drop!
P
We had to leave in time to meet up John at Cinema Roma (lovely old Art Deo cinema built by the Italians) for the football and then he was caught up in meetings and couldn't make it so I ended up watching a very boring game of football (Fulham and someone else) with Phil. Slept a bit too. Saw John later and he gave us a lump of Waitrose strong Cheddar cheese. Delicious, salivating at the thought of it now. He's off to work in South Africa for a few months and we, in Eritrea await the arrival of a new Country Director.
Re my Sunday English lesson - its academic writing to a young colleague of Phil's who's just starting a distance uni. course. It gives me someting to do while Phil has his Tigrigna lesson.
C
Tuesday 2 December 2008
Eritrea Frustrations (Part 1)
One of the problems with living in what amounts to a Military State is that foreigners have to obtain permission in the form of travel permits in order to go anywhere of any distance from Asmara. It's quite strange that volunteers living away from Asmara (who are only here to try and help, after all) have to apply to be able to travel between the capital and their placements.
For us it's not just a matter of "let's just pop down to Massawa this weekend" (lack of a bus notwithstanding) such excursions have to be planned at least 10 days in advance. Furthermore there are desinations in the country which are, arbitrarily it seems to us, out of bounds.
We thought it would be OK at first but it's starting to feel confining now and it's one of the things that we would change about Eritrea if we could.
The travel permit situation has got worse since we've been here I think. When we arrived it was "up to 10 days" to get one, now it's definitely "10 days". Volunteers working outside Asmara used to be allowed 6 months permits, this has now been reduced to 2 or 3 months which means they have to come back into Asmara to get new ones. Without a valid permit army checkpoints will make you get off the bus and not allow you to finish your journey. Thid could leave you stranded in the middle of the country, something which happened to Richard. He had a 3 month permit but unfortunately the stamp on the permit had changed over the three months. A lot of the checkpoint soldiers cannot read and so only have the stamp to go on and if that doesn't look right you're off the bus (no arguing with an AK47.) Luckily for him a VSO vehicle was coming along the road and was able to pick him up and take him back to Asmara. It is a reminder (if you needed one) of the amount of state control.
C and P
For us it's not just a matter of "let's just pop down to Massawa this weekend" (lack of a bus notwithstanding) such excursions have to be planned at least 10 days in advance. Furthermore there are desinations in the country which are, arbitrarily it seems to us, out of bounds.
We thought it would be OK at first but it's starting to feel confining now and it's one of the things that we would change about Eritrea if we could.
The travel permit situation has got worse since we've been here I think. When we arrived it was "up to 10 days" to get one, now it's definitely "10 days". Volunteers working outside Asmara used to be allowed 6 months permits, this has now been reduced to 2 or 3 months which means they have to come back into Asmara to get new ones. Without a valid permit army checkpoints will make you get off the bus and not allow you to finish your journey. Thid could leave you stranded in the middle of the country, something which happened to Richard. He had a 3 month permit but unfortunately the stamp on the permit had changed over the three months. A lot of the checkpoint soldiers cannot read and so only have the stamp to go on and if that doesn't look right you're off the bus (no arguing with an AK47.) Luckily for him a VSO vehicle was coming along the road and was able to pick him up and take him back to Asmara. It is a reminder (if you needed one) of the amount of state control.
C and P
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