Rain, Keren and Steam Trains

Rain
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It's currently the small rainy season in the Asmara region and it's been a good one so far - quite a few thunderstorms (along with the occasional consequent power-cut) and lots of much-needed rain - the associated temperature drop provides some Asmarinos with the excuse to dress like they're on a polar expedition although temperatures are still in the 20's.

I have also been forced to switch to a different wash-cycle - well, OK washing stays on the line for longer, as opposed to the usual put it out in a large bowl early in the morning to soak and warm up in the sun (this country could thrive on efficient solar-power), rinse and hang-out to dry at lunchtime and gather in early evening.

Trip to Keren
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Last weekend we took a bus trip to Keren, Eritrea's second city in terms of size and the main town of the Anseba Zoba (region), to see another VSO volunteer, Catherine, who is nearly at the end of her two year stay in Eritrea and preparing to leave.

One of the restrictions placed on foreigners is that travel permits have to be obtained for travel to other cities in order to get through army check-points so we duly applied for those a few days before.

Keren is about 100km North West of Asmara and about 1,000 metres lower. Due to the nature of the terrain, the bus journey usually takes over 3 hours - we had also been warned that we could have quite a long wait to even get on a bus providing us the perfect excuse to leave work early on the Friday and join the queue ... except we got straight on a bus - it seems that the diesel shortage which forced the UN peacekeeping force to withdraw may be easing.

Saturday morning, following a few drinks and overnight thunderstorms, first impressions are of a town set in the middle of mountainous semi-desert, lots of white, flat-roofed, buildings and definitely a more Muslim feel to it than Asmara - the Eritrean way is for the different ethnic and religious groups to just get on with it, by the way, though there are reports that "unofficial" religions are not tolerated too well by the govenment.

We just wandered around for the day. The town has a biblical, middle-eastern air - camels and donkeys are still in use as beasts of burden (alongside large lorries and buses) and traditional clothing is seen much more than in Asmara. As is always the case we were greeted by cries of "you! what is your name?" from children and, occasionally, "Ts'ada n'a!" which roughly translates as "here whitey!".

Train Trip
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The train trip was actually a while ago (March 23rd) but since, it seems, we may be about to get some photos posted online (Un grand merci a un certain M. Fiquet de Guildford pour son aide) just a few words.

The trip was a fairly short one as far as the station at Nefercit and back and it took a morning and most of an afternoon.

It was a great day, some of the engineers on the train had worked on the railway 60 years ago and spoke some Italian (andiamo! was a frequent cry), there was also an Italian engineer working in order to pick up experience to allow him to teach others. The line is so steep in places that the small tank locomotive couldn't make it back up the section without stopping to build a head of steam.

Merciless sun, glorious views across the valleys and the drop-off to the coast, desert plants and dry (seasonal) river valleys, children at the stations armed with big smiles - get the picture? No? Well we'll add the link soon!

P